Friday, June 19, 2015

Sunny, Scenic West Coast of Iceland

Sunny, Scenic West Coast of Iceland

After that bit of dry historical perspective in my previous post, below are a series of photos from our first day on the road. We are a group of 12 with 2 leaders, traveling in a 50 passenger bus. We were blessed with sunshine, for the most part and made frequent stops to learn and practice photographic technique on a variety of subjects.



Hraunfossa Waterfalls seeping out from the lava beds

 Simply Rural Subjects
 Isolated Church
Golf Tee near lunch spot

 Paul with Icelandic ponies
Beautiful mane 
Something to Say

 Famous Black Church of Budir
 Coastal Lava Arch and Nesting Seabirds
Our first night's lodging in small cabins at foot of snow capped range.

Sleep Well,

Barbara and Paul

Happy 71st Birthday to Iceland!

Happy 71st Birthday to Iceland! 

Despite being geologically fairly young, Iceland celebrates its birthday on the 17th of June each year, after officially becoming the Republic of Iceland in 1944. While some of the earliest temporary settlers (around 825 AD) were Irish monks, the Vikings took over and later the Norwegian monarchy. They then put the island up for sale to the highest bidder and the Danes "leased" the governorship, while imposing Lutheranism and a crippling trade monopoly in the early 1600s. When it seemed things couldn't get worse, certain areas were raided by Barbary pirates and many Icelanders kidnapped and enslaved. 

Meanwhile volcanoes periodically exploded, covering the countryside in thick ash; wiping out people, crops and livestock. When the Black Death arrived from Europe, half the Icelandic population succumbed. Then in 1783, the Laki row of craters erupted for 8 months straight; emitting noxious gas and creating the Haze Famine, which ultimately killed 9000 people. 

So, after 5 centuries, Icelanders had had enough of oppression and bad luck, and began to work toward political independence. Though desirous of neutrality in WWII; Iceland having no military was occupied by Britain to keep it out of German hands. After independence in 1944, Iceland became a reluctant member of NATO and an even more reluctant host for US personnel. Those forces departed in 2006. 

Icelandic National Spirit
Girl Scouts and Brass Band

After such a punishing history, Icelanders go all out in celebrating their national birthday. Reykjavik was jammed with celebrants, parades, outdoor bands and performances, carnivals, car shows and free-to-the-public singing and musical entertainment in the Harpa Concert Hall.


Classic Car Show

Classical Music in Harpa

We stopped by to say "hello" at the American Embassy, but no one was home and we were (politely) not invited in! 



In the early evening, Paul and I met the leaders of our photography tour group, William and Iurie, along with 10 other, mostly American, photographers, all eager to begin our pixelated adventure early the next morning.

Now, for the picturesque and sublime scenery,

Enjoy,
Barbara and Paul


Tuesday, June 16, 2015

May the Dwarves be with You!

May the Dwarves be with You!

Sorry, but I couldn't resist that one. 

Display Trolls
These are actually supposed to be trolls, but trolls aren't droll, heh, heh.

It's the jet-lag typing here. We landed in Reykjavik, the capital, or "The 101" (the postal code) for those wishing to blend in as a Reykjavikur. Despite rain and wind, we were ready to ...drag around town until time for bed.
Reykjavik (Smoky Bay)

It's a small city as most capitals go, but this most northerly world capital appears clean, bustling and cosmopolitan. Home to Iceland's first known resident, a Norwegian fugitive by the name of Ingolfur Arnason, beginning in 871 AD, it retains some of its small town charm. 

The skyline is dominated by the Hallgrimskirkja, constructed of concrete and visible for miles around. Taking 34 years to build, the lateral columns are supposed to represent volcanic basalt; symbolic to Icelandic nationalists.



As impressive as the exterior is the interior with its 5275 pipe organ straddling the entryway. It is also symbolic of Iceland's conversion from Catholicism to Lutheranism in 1550 (with the beheading of the Bishop and his 2 sons).
Pipe Organ

After a much needed pick-me-up lunch of locally sourced ingredients at Bergsson's, we trod off to see more sights.

Spinach lasagna, beet salad, rice and homemade bread

A much needed pick-me-up for the Icelandic population after the big financial crash in 2008, was the construction of the Harpa Concert Hall. The spiffy, sparkly, lattice of convex and concave glass panels give the building a futuristic look and gave the local folks hope for a brighter future. It's been compared to the iconic Sydney Opera House in size and importance.

Facade of the Harpa Concert Hall

Though 65% of the Icelandic population lives in the great Reykjavik area (120,000), it seems uncrowded and pedestrian friendly. In fact, we're staying on a pedestrianized street with a very friendly and boisterous (!) bar-hopping group of young folk. 
Of course, most folk enjoy a local "bjor" with their jet-lag and fish & chips.

Skal, 

Barbara and Paul

Monday, June 15, 2015

Iceland - Myths, Elves, Magma and Steam

Iceland - Myths, Elves, Magma and Steam

Greetings to all at the outset of our upcoming journey to Iceland. For my 60th Birthday this summer, Paul is taking me to travel Iceland. 

We heard about a highly recommended photo tour with a fellow named William Yu, from San Francisco, teamed up with an Icelandic photographer, Iurie Belegurschi.  http://williamyuphotoworkshops.com/iceland.html

This first part of our trip, centered on photography, will be with a group of 12, traveling by chartered bus, primarily to the most scenic, SW quadrant of the island. The general route is depicted below as the red points and will proceed from Reykjavik (in the extreme southwest tip) in a roughly clockwise manner.



This time of year, the days are quite long as the date of the summer solstice approaches. So, I've nicknamed this photo journey "The Sleep Deprivation Tour". 

The guided portion of the trip ends around the 25th, when Paul and I leave the group, rent a car and set out on our own to see more by driving Route 1. It's called the Ring Road and we'll be navigating around the country (blue route) also in a clockwise fashion. 

We've made reservations for accommodations through "AirBnB", an online company that offers a system of private rentals in homes, apartments and cottages, for far below hotel costs and usually in more interesting, authentic neighborhoods.

Stay tuned, more photos and stories to share.

Barbara and Paul


Monday, June 8, 2015

Happy Birthday to Rocky Mountain National Park

                         Entry Gate
                                                                Celebration Poster

Over this past Memorial Day, Paul and I drove to north central Colorado to visit Rocky Mountain National Park. The staff and visitors are celebrating the centennial of the Park's establishment. 

In times past, the Utes and Arapahoes traversed the mountains. After the 1820s, when the area was surveyed by Stephen Long (for whom 14,259 ft Long's Peak is named), settlers, hunters, miners, loggers, and tourists "discovered" the area, establishing the town of Estes Park and numerous dude ranches and other businesses in the region. Finally, Enos Miller who first came to Estes Park as a young lad made it his life's work to lobby for legislation to preserve the lands as a National Park, on the model of Yellowstone. President Wilson signed the bill into law in January of 1915. 

During our recent stay, it rained and snowed every day, showing that Mother Nature will do what she wants, whenever she wants, and change on a whim! 
 Bear Lake and Sprague Lake 

Paul on a snowy bridge near Cub Lake


Deep Fluff

How long do we have to hold this pose ???

The park now encompasses over 400 square miles on the front range (east side) of the Rockies. It holds something for everyone with spectacular peaks (72 over 12,000ft.), moraines (glacier-formed valleys), lakes (150), streams (450 miles) and tons of wildlife - hoofed, furred, and feathered. 
We really enjoyed the few hours of the beautiful sunny skies and vistas for which RMNP is known, on two mornings. These photos are from the few "teaser hours" of sunshine that broke through here and there.

 Alongside Trail Ridge Road at closure point
 View from Moraine Campground
Sheep Lake
Ouzel Falls

 Trail Ridge Road is a popular feature which connects the east and west sides of the Park, yielding spectacular, above-tree-line views as it ascends to 12,183 ft. Needless to say, snow closes the route for all but 4-5 months per year and huge, powerful plows are required to open it in the Spring.


Stronger than we knew!
On a smaller scale, we spotted droves of elk (many were collared for research purposes), rocky mountain bighorn sheep, a fox, ducks, geese, 


Elk in meadow

 Big Guy shedding winter coat
 Bighorn Crossing
 Wild Turkey
Deer Crossing? You don't say!


                                       Collared Elk
 Grazing Bighorn and a pair of Elk on a hillside
                                   
                         Wet as a duck -      and  a -     friendly duck walking companion

The Rangers were great, giving talks, demonstrations, and hosting an Artist-in-Residence program and Exhibition. 

 Demo materials for a talk on Bighorn Sheep

 Rocky Mtn National Park Artist-in-Residence Exhibition

We were also fortunate enough to see a mother owl and pair of owlets.

Mama Owl 
Pair of fuzzy Owlets

Brave Bloom

All in all, it was a wonderful trip to RMNP and visit with Mother Nature.

Thanks for "joining" us for the journey - Barbara & Paul

Saturday, May 9, 2015

End of the Trail at the Oasis of West Texas

End of the Trail at the Oasis of West Texas

On the last leg of our April journey through west and south Texas, we looped around through the Hill Country (see previous posts) to feast our eyes on the wildflowers. 

The return from any trip isn't usually much fun, just a necessity. However as we turned our noses westward, we encountered the "Oasis of West Texas" and the "Pearl of the Conchos"; San Angelo, TX.

With low expectations and an "Are we there yet?" attitude, we rolled into the town with an art museum shaped like a covered wagon, an early reputation of being a "fairly lawless cow town filled with brothels, saloons and gambling houses", a "chicken farm" art center and a military fort without walls. Home to about 100,000 souls, it is situated at the confluence of the North and South Concho Rivers. 

The current iteration of this small city was founded just after the Civil War ended  when the US government began to build forts in "hostile" territories. Given the lack of trees in this NE region of the Chihuahuan desert, Fort Concho was constructed of limestone without walled defenses. The fort housed and trained 9th & 10th Cavalry, 24th & 25th Infantry, and the famous Black Cavalry, otherwise known as "Buffalo" Soldiers by Native Americans. Little did I know that the last known Buffalo Soldier, Mark Matthews, died at the age of 111 in 2005!!

 Fort Concho, built of limestone, has been restored and is open to visitors.

Buffalo Soldier Tour Guide

In the 1970's, an enterprising potter in San Angelo purchased property which had been an old chicken farm. Over the years he converted it into studio and retail space for 15 artists, with an adjoining cafe and B&B. Who could pass that up?? Though the center is closed on Sundays, we were invited in ... to spend some money!

Chicken Farm Art Center Artisans

The last little unexpected gem we had time to discover was that San Angelo is also the home of the International Water Lily Collection. One of the local residents has made it his life's work to travel the world in search of rare and unusual species to add to the ponds. The collection now boasts over 300 varieties of water lilies - in the desert of West Texas!

International Water Lily Collection

Then it was really time to head home, via the plains (read: flat land with nowhere for water to run off) of West Texas. When the skies open up out there, watch out and get ready to paddle! 

West Highway 82/380 underwater

One more stop in the mountains around Ruidoso, NM, AKA hangout of Billy, the Kid and wealthy folks escaping the summer heat of Texas and parts south. Then back to Albuquerque, home, family and local friends. Thanks for coming along on this journey. 

Ruidoso Museum


Regards,
Barbara and Paul